Thinking about moving to Urubamba? Wondering what it’s like to live in one of the Sacred Valley’s fastest-growing towns? From the busy town centre to the greener communities of Chicon and Yanahuara, Urubamba offers a surprising variety of lifestyles.
By Chere Di Boscio
At around 53 kilometres from Cusco, Urubamba is one of the largest and fastest-growing towns in Peru’s Sacred Valley. And these days, there’s much more to it than simply being a convenient stop between Cusco and Machu Picchu.
Urubamba has become an increasingly popular place for expats, Peruvians from other parts of the country, digital nomads, retirees and families looking for more space and a slower pace of life than Cusco can offer.
And with good reason: it’s definitely one of the most practical places to live in the Sacred Valley.
There are supermarkets, banks, pharmacies, restaurants, gyms, medical services and plenty of everyday businesses. And if you ask me, it also features the best restaurants, cafes and markets.
And as bustling as this town is, you don’t have to go far from the centre to find green countryside, farmland and spectacular mountain scenery.
One of the most important things to understand about living in Urubamba is this: Urubamba isn’t just the town centre.
The wider area includes very different neighbourhoods, and where you choose to live can dramatically change your experience.
What is Urubamba like?
The centre of Urubamba is busy, energetic and increasingly urban.
Unfortunately, it’s not the prettiest town in the Sacred Valley, and it doesn’t have the colonial charm of Ollantaytambo. But what it lacks in picturesque streets, it makes up for in convenience.
As I mentioned, you’ll find a large local market, shops, restaurants, cafés, banks, pharmacies, schools, gyms and other services within a relatively compact area. For many expats, this is precisely the attraction.
You can walk into town, have lunch with friends, buy groceries, take a taxi or colectivo, go to the gym and get most of your errands done without having to travel to Cusco.
But head just a little farther out and the landscape changes dramatically.
Chicon, Yanahuara and the greener side of Urubamba
One of the biggest changes in the Urubamba area over recent years has been growth outside the traditional town centre.
Communities such as those in Chicon and Yanahuara offer a very different experience from central Urubamba.
These areas are greener and more rural, with farmland, gardens, larger properties and lovely mountain views. You can be only a short drive from the restaurants and shops of Urubamba while feeling as though you’re living in the countryside.
This makes the wider Urubamba area particularly interesting for people who want space and nature without being completely isolated.
Chicon is especially striking because of the views towards the snow-capped Chicón mountain, which rises to more than 5,500 metres.
Yanahuara and the surrounding countryside also have a more agricultural character, with fields and rural communities mixed with newer homes, lodges and developments.
However, it should be noted that these prettier areas are now under threat thanks to the disastrous Plan de Desarollo Urbano, by the horrible mayor Ronald Gallegos Verde, who is trying to urbanise the greener parts of Urubamba.
Urubamba’s climate
At approximately 2,870 metres (9,415 feet) above sea level, Urubamba sits somewhat lower than Cusco. And for those who are sensitive to altitude, that difference is noticeable.
The climate is generally mild and pleasant, and many people find it easier to acclimatise here than in Cusco.
Sunny days can feel warm, particularly in sheltered areas, while evenings and nights can be cool. As throughout the Andes, the temperature can change quickly depending on sun, shade, wind and season.
One of the great pleasures of living in Urubamba is being able to spend much of the year outdoors. Gardens, terraces, patios and outdoor cafés are a big part of life here.
The Urubamba River and mountain scenery
The town takes its name from the Urubamba River, which runs through the valley and continues towards Ollantaytambo and the cloud forest. Unfortunately, over the past 20 years, this river has become terribly polluted, though.
That said, the surrounding mountains are one of the area’s greatest assets, and haven’t changed much over time. On clear days, the snow-covered peaks provide an extraordinary backdrop, particularly around the Chicon side of the valley.
The scenery is one reason people who initially come to Urubamba for a short stay sometimes end up considering it as a place to live.
It’s difficult to overstate how different it feels to drink your morning coffee with mountain views compared with looking out over a large, grey city!
The Urubamba market
Urubamba has a colourful local market that operates daily, and this is one of the most useful and interesting things about living here.
Unlike some of the more tourist-oriented markets in the Sacred Valley, the Urubamba market is primarily geared towards local residents, and the prices reflect that.
You can find fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, cheese, bread, grains, household goods, pots and pans and countless other everyday necessities.
For expats, the market is also one of the best ways to get a feel for ordinary life in the valley. Most locals have their ‘casera’ – or, in other words, the person they buy from frequently who gives them the best deals. But to have this kind of relationship, you’ll need to be comfortable shopping and communicating in Spanish, of course!
Restaurants and cafés in Urubamba
Urubamba’s food scene has changed considerably over the years.
There are now far more cafés, restaurants and places to meet friends than there were when the town was primarily regarded as a stopover.
You’ll find everything from traditional Peruvian food to international cuisine, vegetarian and vegan dishes, pizza, coffee shops, bakeries and more upscale dining.
There are also several excellent hotels and retreat centres in and around Urubamba whose restaurants, spas and other facilities are popular with both visitors and local residents. In fact, the best hotels in the entire Sacred Valley, Tambo del Inka and Inkaterra, are here.
Check our current Sacred Valley restaurant guides for the latest cafe and restaurant recommendations.
Hotels, retreats and wellness
As mentioned above, Urubamba has some of the most luxurious accommodation in the Sacred Valley. But there’s lots of choice: large international hotels sit alongside boutique properties, family-run guesthouses, private homes and retreat centres.
Wellness is also a significant part of the local economy, with yoga, meditation, massage and other retreats operating in and around the town.
Shopping and everyday life
One of the biggest advantages of living in Urubamba is convenience.
As the town has grown, so has the range of everyday services.
You’ll find:
- A large daily market
- Grocery stores and supermarkets
- Pharmacies
- Banks and ATMs
- Hardware stores
- Clothing shops
- Cafés and bakeries
- Restaurants
- Gyms and fitness classes
- Medical and dental services
- Schools, both private and state
- Local transportation
- Numerous small businesses and services
For anything particularly specialised, however, you’ll still probably find yourself heading to Cusco.
That’s one reason Urubamba works so well as a home base: it’s large enough for everyday life, but Cusco is still accessible when you need something the valley doesn’t offer.
Getting around from Urubamba
Urubamba is well connected to other parts of the Sacred Valley.
Colectivos and taxis make it relatively easy to get to neighbouring towns, while buses and other transportation connect the valley with Cusco.
The road through Chinchero provides an important route to Cusco, and Urubamba is also conveniently positioned for travelling towards Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu.
You don’t necessarily need a car if you live in the town centre.
However, if you choose a home in Chicon, Yanahuara, Pumahuanca or another rural area, having access to a vehicle—or budgeting for regular taxis—can make life considerably easier.
This is an important consideration when choosing where to live.
Is Urubamba expensive?
Urubamba is not necessarily the cheapest place to live in the Sacred Valley.
As the town has become increasingly popular with foreigners and wealthier Peruvians, housing and commercial rental prices have risen significantly.
At the same time, there is a huge range of accommodation, from modest one bedroom apartments to sprawling luxury homes.
For food, the situation is similar: shopping at the local market and eating at small local restaurants can be very affordable, while shops featuring imported products, upscale restaurants and businesses catering to foreign visitors can cost considerably more.
Living in central Urubamba vs the surrounding areas
This is perhaps the most important decision you’ll make.
Central Urubamba
Best for people who want:
- Walkability
- Easy access to shops and restaurants
- Public transportation
- A more urban atmosphere
- Convenience
- Being close to the market
- Less dependence on a car
The downside is that the centre is busy. Traffic, noise, construction and light and air pollution are significant, particularly as the town continues to grow.
Chicon and other greener areas
Best for people who want:
- Larger gardens
- More space
- Mountain views
- A quieter environment
- Greenery and agricultural surroundings
- A rural lifestyle without being too far from town
The trade-off is that you’ll generally be more dependent on taxis or a private vehicle.
Yanahuara
Yanahuara and the surrounding countryside offer another compromise between town and country.
There are increasingly more homes and developments here, but the area retains a greener, more rural character than central Urubamba.
For someone looking for a peaceful home with access to the services of Urubamba, it’s well worth investigating.
The expat community
Urubamba has a sizeable international community, although it feels quite different from Pisac. While Pisac has a particularly strong alternative-lifestyle and wellness identity. Urubamba tends to feel more mixed, with expats living alongside long-established Peruvian families. And the expats here tend to integrate with the local culture much more than the Pisac hippies – their Spanish is better, their group of friends is likely a mix of foreign and local people, and they’re probably digital nomads or working in town.
Since Urubamba is more urban overall than Pisac, Huaran or Arin, it’s not as suited towards families, despite the fact that there are more schools here.
Is Urubamba the right place for you?
Urubamba has changed enormously over the past few years. What was once a relatively quiet, somewhat overlooked town has become one of the Sacred Valley’s most active and fastest-growing communities.
But perhaps the most interesting thing about Urubamba isn’t the town itself. It’s the variety of lifestyles available within the wider area.
You can live in the centre and walk to the market, cafés, restaurants, shops and services. Or you can move a little farther out and find yourself surrounded by fields, gardens and spectacular mountain views in places such as Chicon and Yanahuara.
That flexibility is one of Urubamba’s biggest advantages.
It’s a good choice if you want the beauty and slower pace of the Sacred Valley but don’t want to give up the conveniences of a larger town. It’s also a particularly practical option for working-aged singletons, retirees and couples.
Of course, growth comes with a price. More people mean more traffic, construction, noise and, in some areas, higher property prices. If you’re looking for a tiny, sleepy Andean village, Urubamba may already feel too busy for you.
But if you want space, scenery, good food, a growing community and easy access to the rest of the valley, Urubamba is well worth considering.
My advice? Don’t judge Urubamba by its town centre alone.
Spend a few days here, then explore the roads and communities beyond it. Have lunch in town, visit the market, drive out towards Chicon and Yanahuara, look at some properties, and talk to people who actually live here.
You may find that Urubamba isn’t just somewhere you pass through on the way to Machu Picchu. It might be somewhere you decide to stay.
